Qualities of a Touring-Specific Bike
What to look for in a touring bike-
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A durable frame -
Bicycle frames can be made of steel, aluminum, titanium or carbon fiber tubes. Touring frames are usually constructed of aluminum and steel and have relaxed angles and a longer wheelbase for comfort and stability. A longer chainstay (distance from rear wheel to pedals) also provides extra clearance so pedaling doesn't interfere with the rear panniers. You also want enough clearance in the front so your feet don't hit the front tire or fender. You want a durable, well made frame that fits correctly. Whether you buy a bike online or in a local bike shop (LBS), you need a qualified person to measure you. Touring bike frames have a lower bottom bracket, which brings the center of gravity lower to the ground. This adds to the comfort of the ride and the loaded panniers are easier to control. The frame must be strong enough to handle pannier loads of fifty pounds or more and have built in attachment points (eyelets and braze-ons) for mounting racks, fenders and bottle cages.
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Well built wheels -
When bicycle touring you want strong wheels that will withstand heavy loads and a variety of road surfaces. The wheel is composed of a rim, spokes and a hub. Most rims are made of an aluminum alloy, which offers strength and a good surface for braking. The rim should be at least 22 mm wide to accommodate wider tires. The hub, the center part of the bicycle wheel, is another weight-bearing component and is usually made of aluminum. Quick release hubs are important to have because they allow for installation and removal of the wheel without any tools. The rim is connected to the hub by several spokes under tension. The spokes are made of stainless steel because of its durability, stiffness, and ease of maintenance. The more spokes a wheel has, the stronger it is. A touring bike wheel should have no less than 36 spokes. The most common wheel diameters in the U.S. are 26 - inch and a slightly larger metric size, 700C.
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Tires -
When bicycle touring it is important to have high quality tires that will stand up to rough terrain, added weight and offer protection against flats. Kevlar (a light, strong synthetic fiber) lined tires provide extra protection from sharp objects that may cut or puncture the tire. Tire liners, like "Mr. Tuffy", can provide another layer of protection. These lightweight plastic strips can be inserted between the bike tire and tube. Tire width is also important. Tires ranging from 25 mm to 38 mm wide should work depending on how much weight you are carrying and the quality of the road surface. It's a good idea to bring along a spare tire, especially if you have 700C wheels. 700 mm tires are hard to find because most bike shops tend to carry 26-inch mountain bike tires. You can also buy foldable tires that are easy to pack in your panniers.
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Wide-range gearing -
On a loaded touring bike it's beneficial to have low to mid-range gears so you can comfortably spin up a steep mountain, cruise through a valley, or pedal into a headwind while hauling fifty pounds of equipment. You don't need the higher gears found on a racing bike. Bicycle gearing is made up of chainrings on the front and cogs on the rear with various numbers of teeth. The most all-around set up for touring is a triple chainring in the front, coupled with a wide range of gears in the back. For an example, the triple chainring could be 42-32-22 and the rear cogs could range from 12-34. (The numbers represent the number of teeth on the chainring or cog). The gears used will depend on how much baggage you are carrying and how hilly or steep the terrain is. The smallest chainring in the front is called a "granny" gear and is used for very steep climbing.Gear inches is a system for numbering the gear values for bicycle gears. Gear Inch Value = number of teeth on the front ring/number of teeth on the rear cog x diameter of the wheel. Instead of doing the math, you can use a gear inch calculator. For loaded touring, especially in hilly terrain, a gear range with a high of 95 inches to a low of 18 or 21 inches should be adequate.
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Brakes -
When riding a heavy, loaded touring bike you need reliable, well-adjusted brakes. There are three brake options for touring bikes. The first two, cantilever and V-brakes are rim brakes that slow a bike down by the contact of friction pads against the wheel rim. The brakes are light, mechanically simple, easy to maintain, and powerful. Some drawbacks are they require straight un-damaged rims to work well, they wear rims out over time, and perform poorly in wet and muddy conditions. Cantilever brakes have been the choice for loaded touring bikes for many years because they are powerful and have clearance for wider tires and fenders. They have thicker brake pads, which last longer. Cantilever brakes are rapidly being replaced by linear-pull or V-brakes. The V-brakes provide more power through increased leverage and are far easier to adjust than cantilever brakes. When touring if you run into problems any bike shop should be able to help you adjust or fix V-brakes. V-brake pads are very thin so depending on the length of your tour you may want to bring some extra pads along.The last option is the disc brake. It is a hub brake which has a steel disc (or rotor) bolted to a special wheel hub and hydraulic or cable-actuated calipers that mount on the back of the fork blade. When you apply the brake, powerful pistons squeeze the disc to provide stopping power. Disc brakes are usually heavier and more expensive then rim brakes. There are two types of disc brakes: mechanical and hydraulic. Mechanical (cable-actuated) brakes are less expensive than hydraulic brakes, easily serviceable, but may accumulate dirt in the cable lines. Hydraulic brakes use fluid from a reservoir to activate the piston. Since it is a closed system, there is less contamination from dirt and water. They can be difficult to install and repair on the road because the brake system is complicated and the parts aren't interchangeable between brands. If you put disc brakes on your touring bike, you may want to consider mechanical brakes.
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Saddles -
When bicycle touring you will be spending a lot of time in the saddle, so having a comfortable one is a top priority. When you buy a new bike, don't assume the saddle will be comfortable and fit right. You may have to experiment and try several saddles until you find one that fits your body and style of riding. When you find that gem, you have to bond with it by spending time riding to condition your body to the seat. By doing so, you will have less rear end pain and saddle sores. There are hundreds of saddles to choose from depending on your riding style. Saddles are designed for racing, touring, recumbent, casual, and mountain bikes. They come with vinyl, plastic and gel filled synthetic covers. There are men and women's versions. The saddles specifically designed for women are wider and shorter. Whatever saddle you choose make sure it is properly adjusted on the bike by checking the saddle height, tilt, and forward-and-back position.
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Pedals -
There are three types of bike pedals: platform, toe clips and clipless. The most common is the flat style or platform pedal. It is versatile and designed for any kind of footwear. Your foot is not attached to the pedal, which makes it easier to dismount. They are best suited for leisure riding. Toe clips are pedals with cages and straps that hold the foot in the correct position so you can utilize your leg power to pull up on the pedal as well as push down. This increases overall pedal efficiency resulting in better performance. You can wear any kind of shoe with them. The straps can be loosened or tightened as you ride. Clipless pedals have a special mechanism that attaches your foot to the pedal using a cleat mounted on the bottom of your shoe. Clicking the shoe cleat in and out of the pedal takes practice but when mastered results in an efficient, high performance ride. The disadvantages: they are more expensive and require a cleated shoe.